An underrated gem at Picknikins Patio Cafe

The Fabulous, a kicked-up roast beef sandwich at Picknikins.

You don’t hear much about Picknikins, but it’s an underappreciated gem of a restaurant.

It doesn’t do anything trendy or show off a hot new chef’s technique or culinary worldview. Instead, it shows the quiet and unmistakeable power of solid craftsmanship and consistent execution.

At lunch, it specializes in sandwiches and salads and follows a fast-casual model. Order at the register, take a number and a server will deliver your food when it’s ready. Dinner offers sit-down table service and a more upscale experience.

So what makes this place so special? It’s something that few places actually achieve: Everything tastes as it should. Each dish accentuates the main ingredient without detracting from it.

I got a reminder about this during a recent lunch, when I ordered The Fabulous — a roast beef sandwich with, red onions, horseradish, mayonnaise and cream cheese. I could taste the beefy flavors of the sliced meat, a little sweetness and sharpness from the onions, a touch of spice from horseradish and luxurious mouthfeel from the cream cheese and mayo. Not a traditional version of the sandwich, but nothing extraneous, either. The housemade chips have just the right amount of seasoning. Think of kettle chips, but much better.

Dinner offers dining favorites prepared with a solid sense of craftsmanship. My only real complaint with dinner is that several of the plates lean on the sauce squiggles. With a well-seared salmon, for example, there’s no need for a balsamic squiggle.

Make sure to try the Malay Beef Curry, a South African specialty that celebrates the home of owners Andre and Cheryl Bezuidenhout. It’s a thick stew of deep, rich flavors that may remind you of an Indian curry, but has its own flavor profile. And it’s served with sliced bananas and chutney. It was one of those dishes that offered an unfamiliar flavor to me that quickly became a new favorite.

This restaurant served as a great location for a recent business meeting, and I will definitely call them for takeout sandwiches. And the next time my wife and I want to chill with some good food, a nice and not too expensive bottle of wine — and not worry about cleaning up afterwards, we’ll head over here for dinner, too.

Two locations:

6901 Blanco Rd,

5811 University Heights Blvd,